Varanasi

(pre-blog note: I wish there was more time for this blog, as it is a nice way to journal. Sadly, there isn't more time. Hopefully these fragmented bits will get filled in later). --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Varanasi tugs at my heart like no other place in India. It was for this reason I ended up there three times (twice in passing and once as a destination point, a month later). Varanasi (also known as Kashi and Benares) is the place where Hindus bring the bodies of their deceased to be cremated, and these cremations take place along the ghats (steps or landing to the river). Being so close to death is really powerful, I can't explain it. My mind becomes quiet and my own body less important. Apparently, around 300 cremations take place on the river daily, each body placed in its own fire embedded within a stack of logs. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------The Ganges river is seen by Hindus as a goddess, and many people come to bathe in the river daily, cleansing them of all impurities. The deep respect for the river is also expressed with chanting, puja, and other ceremonies that have been practiced for thousands of years. It is quite sad that the holiest of rivers is also the most polluted-- the Varanasi portion of the Ganges has a fecal coliform count of thousands to millions of times over safe levels. 90% of the pollution in the river is caused by the fact that the sewage from the city goes directly into the river. I visited the Sankat Mochan Foundation, an organization working to create a filtration system that uses a combination of science and algae to filter out contaminants, rendering the water suitable for fertilizer, etc.. More to come on this later when I have more time to write. The people of the organization are persistent (as the Govt. of India has been very slow to respond), passionate, and hard-working. Also, they are very appreciative of curious visitors. Again, more on this later. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I now write from McLeod Ganj where I am about to enter ten days of silence for a meditation retreat. Beautiful Water Buffalo

Varanasi from the Ghats

Swimming water buffalo

The boats at night